Jam in Massapequa Park: First bites

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Lobster roll at Jam in Massapequa Park. (November

Lobster roll at Jam in Massapequa Park. (November 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A recent visit to the new Jam, a breakfast and lunch cafe in Massapequa Park, revealed that the place has not yet quite jelled.

Not that it isn’t hyper-popular. Or decorated with flair. But the cute corner restaurant couldn’t deliver on the first — and signature — menu item: a jam flight ($6) featuring a trio of house made jams with mini-biscuits and croissants. “We only have one jam,” the waitress said.

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Another ambitious item, a crisp breakfast bread pudding ($8), showed up as deep-fried cubes, blackened and hard on the outside. There was almost no sign of two ingredients in the menu description — Cheddar cheese and crème anglaise — yet, mysteriously, unmentioned bits of sausage showed up in the interior. Also on the plate: an orchid, aerosol whipped cream and foil-wrapped pats of butter.

Much better were a pal's admirably light blueberry pancakes ($6 short stack; $8 tall stack), which she got with a side of bacon; but the rigid strips had been virtually incinerated.

The star of the meal was an item on the lunch section of the menu: a lobster roll ($18) featuring lots of lobster meat and very little mayonnaise, served on a brioche bun. Accompanying matchstick fries were nothing short of addictive.

Jam is at 1025 Park Blvd., Massapequa Park, 516-797-2000, jamonpark.com.

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