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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Nisen 347 in St. James has closed. This leaves the original Nisen in Commack as the last outpost of what was once a multi-restaurant dynasty.

A brief history is in order: Nisen first opened in East Northport in 2000 and relocated to Commack in 2003. A Woodbury offshoot launched in 2007 and closed in 2013; then, in late 2013, Nisen 347 opened, followed by Nisen One Ten in Melville. That restaurant made its debut in February 2014 and its exit in December of the same year. New owners have renovated the space and re-opened it as Kenta, with an Asian-Fusion menu.

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Taking over Nisen 347’s vacated bi-level digs at the intersection of Jericho Turnpike and Route 347 will be another sushi-centric Japanese restaurant, this one called Kusha. Chef-owner K.J. Chen said that the site is currently under renovation, adding that while Kusha's menu will be similar its predecessor's, it will offer more choices.

Watch for an opening in about a month or so.