Jolly Fisherman's spring catch in Roslyn

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The The "deluxe seafood cocktail" includes lobster, crab meat and shrimp at The Jolly Fisherman in Roslyn. (April 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, Roslyn's main catch for traditional American seafood, has been hooking diners since 1957.

It's good to go there today for a fine  "deluxe seafood cocktail," a dewy trio of lump crab meat, shrimp and chunks of lobster.

And soft-shell crabs are among the specials, either sauteed meuniere or batter-fried. They's also recommended, either way. Likewise, a pristine special of broiled local flounder.

As it has been since day one, the banana cream pie leads the desserts.

All of it is served in a newly streamlined main dining room, but devotees of the earlier, woody look will find it in the adjoining room. Both overlook the pond. The bar, which doesn't,  similarly has a time-capsule quality. Order an Old Fashioned.

Prices, however, are contemporary. That seafood cocktail is $30.

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, 25 Main St., Roslyn; 516-621-0055.

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