The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
JWs Public House has taken over the Glen Head Road corner most recently occupied by The Fishery Grill. Bill and Mary Terzi are the owners, the general manager is Brad Launer, and the chef is Steven Demetriou who cooked at the Fishery Grill as well as at Fiddleheads in Oyster Bay.
Bill Terzi characterized JWs menu as upscale comfort food. Starters include beef-asparagus negimaki ($9), crisp pork belly with house-pickled vegetables ($12) and tomato with burrata, basil and olive oil ($11). Among mains: mustard-crusted double-cut pork chop ($22) and steak frites ($29); grilled Caribbean salmon with mango vinaigrette ($23) and Montauk skate wing with roasted Brussels sprouts ($24). Pastas are in the low $20s.
The ghost of the Fishery Grill can be seen in such fish-house classics as clam chowder ($7), steamers ($22), broiled fish combo and fried fish combo (both $27). There are also festive shareable seafood platters ($49) both cold (clams, oysters, shrimp, crab legs) and, intriguingly, warm, with grilled shrimp, baked clams, fried calamari, fried Ipswich clams, steamed crab legs.
Weather permitting, there is outdoor seating. The restaurant is open Sunday to Thursday 4 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.
JWs Public House is at 41 Glen Head Rd., Glen Head, 516-200-9090, jwspublichouse.com.