Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A recent lunch at Ko Gu Ryo, a new Korean restaurant in Commack, proved enjoyable. For starters, there was a gratis banchan, or assortment of Korean pickled vegetables, that included spinach, radishes, beans, the ubiquitous kimchee (cabbage) and more. Flavors were forthright but not harsh, as so often can be the case.

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Lunchboxes (the Korean version of the Japanese bento box) included bulgogi, or thinly sliced soy-marinated beef, with two fried dumplings stuffed with a savory ground meat, as well as a bright cabbage salad. My companion’s japchae (clear cornstarch noodles) with vegetables featured the same accompaniments. Satisfying food, friendly service.

Ko Gu Ryo is at 1087 Jericho Tpke., Commack, 631-670-6899.