Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Does the name of this new Five Towns spot sounds vaguely Japanese? It’s not, actually. Kumkapi (which makes its home where Scarcella’s once was) is a Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant named for owner Mike Sarac’s old Istanbul ‘hood, an area known for its seafood and restaurants.

The first thing I do with my menu is scan it for chargrilled octopus. Yes, it lists cephalopod. The tentacles I get are tender, smoky, glossed with olive oil spiked with a touch of vinegar and sprinkled with a little fresh dill. Another must-order for me in Turkish restaurants is chicken Adana kebab (think of grilled spiced ground chicken shaped like a flat sausage). Another winner. Too bad the mushy rice that shares the plate is anything but kebab-worthy.

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Kumkapi is at 1230 Broadway, Hewlett, 516-812-3920, kumkapirestaurant.com

Newsday Photo/Joan Reminick