La Bistecca in Valley Stream: First bites

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Osso buco at La Bistecca in Valley Stream.

Osso buco at La Bistecca in Valley Stream. (Oct. 2012) Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

La Bistecca beefs up dining out in Valley Stream.

The handsome, traditional Italian restaurant is staffed by veterans from the departed Branzino in Lynbrook. And they contribute to the welcoming, understated style of the place, which looks as if it has been here for decades.

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It's a comfortable, cozy spot, with Old World appointments, dim lighting, and a menu that owes nothing to the trendlets of the day.

Try the excellent pappardelle alla Bolognese, a very tender osso buco, and frothy, winey zabaglione atop berries. It's time travel, well-spent. Figure $50 to $100 per person for dinner.

La Bistecca, 410 Rockaway Ave., Valley Stream; 516-341-7177.

Osso buco at La Bistecca.

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