Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Warmly and confidently, Lisbon Cafe brings the savory, soulful fare of Portugal to Carle Place. It's the scion of Heart of Portugal, the dependable, veteran restaurant in Mineola.

And the food is just as good here.

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Lisbon Cafe takes over the address occupied recently by 490 West. The dining areas are cozy; the service, friendly and attentive. It's already a destination restaurant.

The temperature is predicted to plummet to single digits. But the house's caldo gallego will overcome any chill. This bracing soup, made with kale, potatoes, and sausage, is very satisfying. Don't leave a drop. Use the dense Portuguese bread as a sponge.

Be sure to do the same with the garlic sauce that sparks an opener of shrimp. Main courses are many. One standout: the traditional combination of pork and clams, a delicious surf-and-turf with potatoes and pickled vegetables.

Wobbly, sweet flan is the obligatory dessert. But you'll be back to try more.

Lisbon Cafe, 490 Westbury Ave., Carle Place; 516-280-5015.