Lola in Great Neck: Small is beautiful

+ -
Sweet roasted figs served at Lola in Great

Sweet roasted figs served at Lola in Great Neck. (July10, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday / Rebecca Cooney

advertisement | advertise on newsday

Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Normally, I don’t love tapas. Give me a huge plate of pasta from Gino’s in Manhasset, or a large meatball panino from Red Tomato in East Norwich, or a big bowl of borscht from Silver’s in Southampton, and I’ll be thinking the world is a good place.

At Lola  in Great Neck, globe-trotting chef-owner Michael Ginor has always emphasized small plates, but he recently converted the restaurant to an all-tapas menu. His cuisine has gotten even more refined over the last few years, so beautifully executed that I’m now a convert and have already told everyone I know that they have to get a reservation. (Newsday critic Peter M. Gianotti has awarded Lola 3-1/2 stars.)

advertisement | advertise on newsday

To start, tiny diced red beets with a generous helping of burrata on top, so sweet and tangy that I was not happy to spare even a forkful with my friend. Then Korean fried chicken, dark meat of course, that was crisp, tangy, and artfully burnished.

On the five-course $40 tasting menu came an heirloom tomato salad with watermelon and feta, seared foie gras with grilled peaches, day boat scallops served in a shell, a plate of roasted fresh figs, and one of rounds of beef over paprika-laced whipped potatoes. And there are dozens of more plates to choose from, running about $7 to $20 each.

Lola also now offers a Sunday brunch featuring such dishes as a Yemenite layered dough with “overnight eggs and tomato concusses’’ and fresh-baked focaccia filled with a sunnyside egg and aged Cheddar with preserved lemon-dressed arugula. Prices run $12 to $18 for the main courses.

Lola is at 113 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-466-5666,

Subscribe to our newsletter for restaurant recommendations, recipes and more.

Comments now uses Facebook for our comment boards. Please read our guidelines and connect your Facebook account to comment.

You also may be interested in: