Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

When friends fly into JFK and announce that they are hungry, I usually take them to Itgen’s in Valley Stream. But this weekend my guests were arriving at 7:05 a.m. and that’s a little early—even for me—for a hot fudge sundae.

My colleague Joan Reminick didn’t hesitate when I asked her for a breakfast spot in the vicinity of JFK: Atlantica, the beachfront restaurant at the Allegria Hotel in Long Beach that she included in her roundup of LI "breakfasts with a view.” 

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Everything we ate and drank was top-notch—the blueberry pancakes, the buckwheat pancakes, the waffles, the eggs, the coffee. Service was an odd blend of pokey and brusque, but it was hard to mind with a view this spectacular. The restaurant looks out beyond the boardwalk and beach to the ocean and seems much more South Beach than Long Beach. The Floridian illusion is reinforced by the luxe-beachy decor—all aquas and sandy beiges, mirrors and seashells—and the profusion of patrons who seem to have walked off the set of Miami Vice. My guests were suitably impressed, but no more than I was.

Atlantica is at 80 W. Broadway, Long Beach, 516-889-1300.