The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
In this weeks Newsday, Peter Gianotti awards four stars to Be-Ju, the serene, pristine sushi bar inside Tom Schaudels buoyant, brassy Jewel in Melville. At the restaurant-within-a-restaurant, he writes, chefs Shigeki Uchiyama and Hiroki Tanii offer some of the best uncooked fish on Long Island.
Schaudel, one of Long Islands most successful chef-restaurateurs, has opened dozens of restaurants over the last three decadesPanama Hatties in Huntington, 107 Forest Avenue in Locust Valley, Coolfish in Syosset, Tease in Roslyn, Jedediah Hawkins House in Jamesport and A Mano in Mattituck among them. This is the first time one of his kitchens has earned four stars.
Joan Reminick visits Sals Ristorante, which takes over the Smithtown location of DiMaggios. On wintry nights, she writes, the place has a certain radiance, its butternut squash-colored walls hung with resolutely cheerful art. Among the menus highlights are the addictive focaccia pillow and the Napolitana pizzetta.