Long Island restaurants: New reviews

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Pea, onion, and hot pepper utthapam is served Pea, onion, and hot pepper utthapam is served with chutneys and sambar on Feb. 1, 2014 at Chennai Dosas in Hicksville. Photo Credit: Alessandro Vecchi

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick reviews Chennai Dosas in Hicksville, a “cheerful little eatery .?.?. that can change the way you view lunch buffets. And vegetarian eating. And Southern cooking — Southern Indian, that is.” The restaurant offers some familiar Northern dishes such as palak paneer (spinach and fresh cheese stew) but “the true focus is a repertoire of South Indian specialties headed by the dosa, a lightly crunchy, filled crepe,” which is offered in dozens of variations.

Peter Gianotti visits Tullulah’s in Bay Shore. It's a “stylized, small-plates restaurant already a beacon for a young, savvy crowd. And this hard-surface spot, just north of Main Street, is as close to hipsterdom as you’ll get in the ZIP code.” The Brooklyn-on-the-South-Shore vibe is “accompanied by good, local beer, respectable wines” and chef-owner Steven Scalesse’s “full-flavored food.”

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