The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
In this week’s Newsday, Peter M. Gianotti reviews Claudio’s, which has taken over the space that housed Glen Cove’s storied La Pace (1978 to 2005) and its successor, La Pace with Chef Michael, which closed last year. Claudio Zustovich and his son Fabrizio “have overhauled and brightened the spacious, high-ceiling dining room” but haven’t strayed far from La Pace’s original Italian-continental cuisine “which used to define haute in disco-era Nassau and Suffolk. So far,” he writes, “the restoration is very good.”
Joan Reminick visits two of Long Island’s newest artisanal pizzerias. Massa’s Coal-Fired Brick Oven Pizzeria first opened in 2004 on Jericho Turnpike and now has moved into Huntington Village. While Reminick encountered some missteps among the appetizers and side dishes, “order just the pizza,” she advises, “and you can eat well.” Pizza Fab! in Hicksville (which originally opened last December as Pizza Fabbrica) is a handsome spot with reclaimed wood, exploded ductwork and, “the center of attraction: three tiled Neapolitan wood-burning ovens.” The pizzas are still a work in progress, but she liked the specialty “fried Margherita pizza, wherein the crust is first fried, then topped with sauce and cheese and finished in the oven.”