The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
At the new Marble Modern American Steakhouse in Floral Park, a grilled-to-order sirloin burger, capped with Cheddar cheese and flanked by hand-cut fries, is a good choice, says Newsday critic Peter M. Gianotti. The best steak is the 21-day aged New York strip, fibrous and tender, juicy and weighing in at a manageable 14 ounces. Gianotti awards the restaurant two stars.
At Tre Sorelle in Sea Cliff, owned by three sisters, Joan Reminick's dinner is jump-started by an individual Margherita pizza, ideal for sharing. A big bowl of shrimp marinara features plump shellfish in a lively sauce. Reminick awards the restaurant one and a half stars.