Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

One of the luxuries when you dine at a Japanese restaurant is to choose "omakase," or the chef's choice of fish for sushi and sashimi. Freshness and creativity prevail. The selections change based on what the market offers. Here are three establishments where the chefs excel at omakase.

GINZA, 45 Carmans Rd., Massapequa; 516-882-9688, ginzali.com

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Seafood from Tokyo's Market highlights your meal at Ginza, an opulent establishment that stands out with fatty and medium-fatty tuna, plus colorful, special rolls, and such increasingly familiar dishes as fluke usuzukuri, miso black cod and rock shrimp tempura.

KENTA1197 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville; 631-421-8000, kentali.com

The newest spot to make Newsday's Top 10 for uncooked fish, Kenta stands out with the sashimi and sushi of the day. Earlier this year: whole horse mackerel, artfully arranged, fresh and marine; and lustrous, silky Kona kampachi, or baby yellowtail from Hawaii. Call ahead to see what's in.

VORTEX4747 Nesconset Hwy., Port Jefferson Station; 631-509-1000, vortexasianbistro.com

Vortex brings you in for a spin on kaiseki, the Japanese dinner akin to a tasting menu. But the version here is more like omakase, with a more modest number of dishes. Those that excel include tuna three ways with snow crab, sliced live scallop and Kumamoto oysters with quail egg.