An initial visit to the new Luigi’s Pizzeria in Mineola revealed that the place has its high points.
Chef Charlie Keller’s house meatballs ($12.95), a lush and pillowy combination of beef, pork and veal, came topped with marinara and a dollop of seasoned ricotta. Very good. Fine flavor in his spaghetti cacio e pepe ($10.95) made with butter, extra-virgin olive oil, cracked pepper and Parmigiano cheese. Problem was, the cheese adhered to some pieces of pasta, causing them to clump together. “That’s the way the dish is,” I was told by the counter server. It was taken back and replaced with linguine primavera ($14.95) — julienne vegetables with roasted tomatoes and garlic, a commendable rendition of the vegetarian classic.
About the pizza: A grandma slice was OK but didn't approach the quality of the artisanal pies produced by the now-gone wood-burning oven of its predecessor, Flip Pizza.
To read more about the transition, click here.
Luigi’s Pizzeria is at 526 Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-294-7400.
Above: House meatballs, with ricotta