Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The pickings are slim at MacArthur Airport in Islip—so slim that I was thrilled to come upon a Phillips Seafood in terminal A. This Maryland-based restaurant has been expanding throughout the mid-Atlantic region and now has outposts as far south at Myrtle Beach and as far north as Philadelphia. The company also franchises airport restaurants, one of which opened more than a year ago at MacArthur.

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My crab cake, full of lump crabmeat with very little else, was way above average and far better than the surimi-filled “crab” cakes I’ve had at supposedly self-respecting seafood restaurants. Phillips’ sides were another story: stodgy hushpuppies, limp steamed vegetables and overly mayonnaised coleslaw.

My crab cake. Newsday photo / Erica Marcus