Mara’s Homemade in Syosset: Burger supreme

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The burger at Mara's Homemade in Syosset is

The burger at Mara's Homemade in Syosset is made from seasoned, ground brisket. (March 12, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

It’s a very special burger that graces the menu of Mara’s Homemade in Syosset. The Cajun restaurant grinds its own brisket, seasons it before and after grilling, and serves it on a homemade pretzel roll.

Last night I sidled up to Mara’s bar and gave it a try: It looked good and tasted better.

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Owner Mara Levi said she tried a number of bakery-produced pretzel rolls before deciding to make her own. I, too, have been almost universally let down by the pretzel rolls that have become so popular on local pub menus; Mara’s was toothsome but not ponderous, with lots of coarse salt.

Mara’s burger was superb. If I had a complaint, it was that the very large roll overwhelmed the meat. Sometimes all a great burger needs is a bun that can fade into the background. Next time I think I’ll order it on a sesame-seed bun and take the pretzel roll home to slather with butter.

A plain "old-fashioned" burger, with Creole mustard, pickles and red onions, is $8. Add $1 for cheese. The kitchen also makes a variety of Cajun-inspired burgers including the Bayou (with rémoulade and hot sauces, $10), the Muffuletta (with olive salad, salami and pepper jack cheese, $11), the pulled pork (with Texas BBQ pulled pork and spicy slaw, $12) and the Mara’s Mega Burger, topped with a grilled split hot dog, Texas BBQ sauce, chili, Cheddar and red onion, $15.

Mara's Homemade is at 236 W. Jericho Tpke. (in Muttontown Plaza shopping center), Syosset, 516-682-9200.

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