Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The arrival of a good steakhouse on Long Island is welcomed with a fervor usually reserved for a cut in property taxes.

Marble is very good.

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This "modern American steakhouse" moved into the former site of Bob's Restaurant on Jericho Turnpike in Floral Park. The dining areas have been redone and the polished result is updated clubby.

Clearly of the moment is an appetizer dubbed "Marble fries," which combines a warning-signal combo of beef short rib meat, mushroom gravy, mozzarella and French fries to shockingly tasty effect.

A bit more refined and equally flavorful are crisp, fried oysters with aioli spiked with Old Bay seasoning.

But the main event here is red meat. And the New York strip steak arrives fibrous, juicy and cooked to order. The grilled sirloin burger also stands out.

And, in the new wave of local steak houses, so does Marble.

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Marble, 230 Jericho Tpke., Floral Park; 516-500-9666