Millennium Chicken III, Hicksville: First bites

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The aguadito -- chicken cilantro soup -- at

The aguadito -- chicken cilantro soup -- at Millennium Chicken in Hicksville is a colorful, flavorful bowlful. (April, 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Big, bright and family-friendly: that was my take on the new Millennium Chicken III in Hicksville on a recent evening. The place is an offshoot of a Valley Stream Peruvian eatery with a branch in Elmont.

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The night I went, a couple of large family parties were in progress. Still, that didn’t get in the way of dinner, which got off to a rousing start with a small bowl of aguadito ($3.50), a vibrant green chicken cilantro and rice soup with bone-in pieces of poultry. That was followed by the restaurant’s namesake whole rotisserie chicken, enough to feed a family of four, the skin gorgeously burnished and every juicy bite infused with marinade. On the side were a salad with avocado — not bad — and some pretty humdrum fries. A better accompaniment would be rice and beans. Either way, the entire combo costs $13.

Millennium Chicken III is at 275 W. Old Country Rd., Hicksville, 516-935-3846.

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