Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Monaco’s Coal Fired Pizza takes over the sideways-facing Huntington Station storefront best known for having housed Massa’s Pizzeria and, for a short time after that, Christian’s.

The place is owned by the Pasquarosa family — father, Tony, mom, Laura, and son, Andy. According to Andy Pasquarosa, pizzaiolo Roni Sanchez has been making pies in the same coal oven for the past five years, under both previous ownerships.

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I stopped into the simply appointed spot and tried both the personal-sized Margherita pizza, topped with fresh mozzarella, a bright tomato sauce and basil ($7.75), and the signature Monaco's pie ($10.75) with its hearty mixture of ground sausage, peppers, onions and fresh mozzarella. Both had a puffy-crispy crusts with a nice char. And if the underside of the sausage pie didn’t stand up to its heavier topping, it still made for good eating. A pallid chopped salad ($7), however, fell short.

Recipes for entrees, heroes and pastas have been in the family for decades, Andy Pasquarosa said. Also on the menu: a seafood salad ($8 small, $16.50 large), spaghetti with meatballs ($9.25), coal oven roasted peppers with tomato and fresh mozzarella ($7.95)

Monaco’s Coal Fired Pizza is at 146 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station, 631-923-0707.