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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The search for the great lobster roll leads to Montauk ... via Brooklyn. Yes, at the tip of Long Island, where lobster reigns, the  Red Hook Lobster Pound outpost on South Etna Avenue has been a hit all summer.

The place rocks with not  one entry but four, all terrific. The “Tuscan” style roll arrives shining from a basil vinaigrette, with threads of basil weaving though it, on a top-split, toasted New England hot dog bun. The “Connecticut” style is warm and buttery, with a lemon chaser. The “Maine” event is the most familiar, with sweet meat and house-made mayonnaise. And the gluten-free “bikini roll” is a quarter pound of lobster meat on bibb lettuce, finished either the Maine or Tuscan way. Add a ringer: the ridiculously good lobster BLT.

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Red Hook’s lobster rolls are $18, undercutting most of the local high rollers. You also can enjoy a shrimp roll for $12; lobster mac-and-cheese for $12; and, for the turf crowd, a Berkshire pork-and-bacon hot dog for $5.50.

The new lobster-roll royal shares the space with Sweet ‘tauk, which complements the rolls with fine Meyer lemon, peach-Thai basil, and watermelon-cucumber lemonade.

Red Hook Lobster Pound, 34 S. Etna Ave., Montauk; 631-668-5683. Red Hook is at 284 Van Brunt St. in Brooklyn.