Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Here it is: The End of pizza.

Long Island's supply of dough stretches as far as Primavera, a little spot that signals the finale for good pies before you're eating Europizza. You'll find the eastern outpost opposite the movie house, off the downtown traffic circle, en route to Montauk harbor.
It's worth the quick search. And the compact pizzeria, no larger than a storefront, does have an alfresco seating area where you can take in the sunny last days of summer along with the fresh mozzarella. La stagione suits Primavera.

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Primavera's Grandma pizza, with roasted garlic and fresh basil, tops the choices, followed by a husky and generously cheesed Sicilian and a workmanlike Margherita. The white pizza, with pecorino, ricotta and fresh mozzarella competes, too. More exotic appetites can consider the Hawaiian (yes, pineapple and ham), the Buffalo (yes, chicken, blue cheese, hot sauce) or the barbecue (yes, BBQ sauce — plus smoked Gouda).

But better alternatives are the eggplant Parmigiana hero, sweet and cooked through; and sandwiches on house-made focaccia: roasted vegetables with arugula and mozzarella; a combo of mortadella, Genoa salami, provolone, red onions, roasted peppers and more; and the essential union of fresh mozzarella, arugula, basil and very ripe tomato.
Balance all this with a green salad strewn with Gorgonzola cheese and you're in business.
There are plenty of straightforward, well-made pasta dishes, too from penne alla vodka or primavera to lasagna and spaghetti Bolognese.

You'll be tempted to do takeout and head for the beach ... or the lighthouse.

Primavera Pizza, 54 South Erie Ave., Montauk; 631-668-1601.