Mosaic: Apocalyptic dinner in St. James for $666

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

If the worlds going to end this Friday, why not see it out with a bang rather than a whimper? Jonathan Contes and Tate Morris, the imaginative chef-owners of Mosaic in St. James, have been planning a lavish, pull-out-all-the-stops last supper for more than a year, and on Dec. 21 they present their Four Courses of the Apocalypse. (There are actually seven courses here, each paired with one or more wines, but really, when the end of the world is nigh, why split hairs?):

Golden Osetra caviar, miso-sweet potato blini with yuzu creme fraiche, radish

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Pinot Noir, Blanc de Noir, Ursules, Roses de Jeanne, Bouchard 2005, Champagne, France

Pulled king crab, sea urchin sabayon, gingered leek, seaweed, sesame matchstick potatoes

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Sauvignon Blanc, Pouilly Fume, Silex, Didier Dagueneau 2009, Loire, France

Roast squab breast, blooming cippolini onion, black-olive remoulade, truffle-fennel cappuccino, caracara orange

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Sangiovese, Cab. Sauv., Cab Franc, Tigananello, Marchesi Antinori 1991, Tuscany, Italy
Montepulciano, Emidio Pepe 1985, Abruzzo, Italy

Caramelized foie gras, apricot Montecristo cigar, smoked Gruyere, fresh beet, aged maple
Boal, Barbeito 1960, Madeira, Portugal

Wagyu beef, sweet potato osso buco, blue-cheese-pancetta marrow, mushroom, celeriac-tomato, green-peppercorn-cider mignonette
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab. Franc, Chateau du Tertre 1982, Margaux, France
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab. Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Les Pavots, Peter Michael 2008, Knights Valley, California

Bitter chocolate bun, pistachio, rosemary caramelized sugar, cinnamon espresso, aged goat cheese
Cabernet Franc, Alzero, Giuseppe Quintarelli 1992, Veneto, Italy

Petits fours; handmade chocolates, rainbow cookies, truffle creme brulee
Port, Moscatel de Setubal, Sweet riesling Blend, Muscat, Armagnac, Cognac, Scotch

The price for this feast is a suitably apocalyptic $666, which includes tax and tip. Seatings will be staggered, at 6:30, 7:15 and 8 p.m. Space is tight at the little restaurant, so act now.

Mosaic is at 418 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-584-2058.

The Mayan calendar predicts that dinner on Friday will be your last.

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