Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

I wasn’t the only one whose eye was caught by a sign touting whole wheat pizza outside Bertucci’s in Melville. Two curious co-workers were intrigued enough join me there for lunch. 

We ordered a whole wheat “giardino” pie topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, roasted red and yellow peppers and grape tomatoes as well as a traditional Margherita with a whole wheat crust.

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No complaints about the toppings. But, geez, why bother with whole wheat dough if the result has the allure of a brown paper grocery bag? The heavy wheat flavor overwhelmed the toppings (not easy to do with something as assertive as tomato) as the dough became sodden – muddy, almost – under the weight of sauce, vegetables and cheese.

We are big fans of the regular Margherita pie that comes out of Bertucci’s wood-burning brick oven. But whole wheat pizza, like whole wheat pasta, is a phenomenon that would (and should) probably be laughed out of Italy.

Bertucci's is at 881 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville, 631-427-9700. For other Long Island locations, go to bertuccis.com

Whole wheat "giardino" pie at Bertucci's