New Orleans cuisine: Alive and kickin' on LI

Flaky, fabulous biscuit -- big as a softball Flaky, fabulous biscuit -- big as a softball -- with creamy andouille sausage gravy at Biscuits & Barbeque, Mineola. (October 2012)

Photo Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

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Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

With Super Bowl XLVII fast approaching, thoughts turn to the host city of New Orleans. Having recently returned from what's arguably America's gastronomic epicenter, after days spent drifting from one super meal to the next, I've gained a renewed appreciation of how well the local Cajun and Creole cuisines are interpreted by Long Island chefs.

I compared the crusty, flaky and decidedly oversize biscuits and andouille sausage gravy recollected from Biscuits & Barbeque in Mineola  to the somewhat sweet and rather characterless little biscuits at Commanders Palace, a truly grand restaurant whose airy, rich bread pudding souffle blew me away. Even so, when it came to biscuits, the Mineola big boys came out on top.

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We held an ongoing gumbo contest involving bowlfuls at such various locales as Cochon, Herbsaint, Emerils, Restaurant August and Sylvain. For the record: Herbsaint won for best in New Orleans. Even so, the chicken and andouille gumbo there didnt match the fire, depth and nuance of gumbos recalled, over the years, at Big Daddys in Massapequa Park and The Bayou in Bellmore.

No question, the food scene in New Orleans is a transcendent one. But that doesnt mean that it doesnt have its ups and downs, like everywhere else. And that we cant, occasionally, hit the heights right here at home.

Biscuits & Barbeque is at 106 E. Second St., Mineola, 516-493-9797.
Big Daddy's is at 1A  Park La., Massapequa Park, 516-799-8877.

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The Bayou is at 2823 Jerusalem Ave., Bellmore, 516-785-9263.

Above: The big, bodacious biscuit at Biscuits & Barbeque in Mineola

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