New Peninsula in Bay Shore: First bites

General Tso's chicken is a specialty at New General Tso's chicken is a specialty at New Peninsula in Bay Shore in February 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

New ownership and a new chef yield New Peninsula.

It succeeds Peninsula at a corner location in downtown Bay Shore. You're still greeted by stone foo dogs and may walk into the dining room via a bridge atop a koi pond. The whole place looks very much the same.

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But owner Danny Wu, whose other Long Island restaurants include two stars in Nassau -- West East All Natural Bistro & Bar in Hicksville and Thom Thom in Wantagh -- already is improving the quality of the food. The executive chef is Andy Wong, a West East veteran.

New Peninsula is Chinese and Japanese with a side of pad Thai. You'll find good miso soup and wonton soup, colorful sushi rolls, and Chinese mainstays that include a not-very-spicy version of General Tso's chicken and a one-course production of Beijing duck.

Service can be erratic, especially if there's a crowd. But it's an earnest, well-intentioned crew.

The fortune cookies are optimistic.

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New Peninsula, 55 W. Main St., Bay Shore; 631-666-8811.

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