Nisen 347 in St. James: First bites

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Fish-and-chips is defined differently, with diced tuna and

Fish-and-chips is defined differently, with diced tuna and seaweed-wheat crackers, at Nisen 347 in St. James in April 2014. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The Nisen group keeps expanding the traditional Japanese restaurant into new, fusion, contemporary and glittery territory. Nisen 347 does it with flair in St. James.

This Nisen uses the template of Nisen One Ten in Melville and Nisen Sushi in Commack. It's a polished production, sometimes whimsical, almost always very good.

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The larger main dining room is upstairs, the futuristic-looking bar on the first floor. But you can eat on either level.

Current favorites: a special dubbed "fish-n-chips" that artfully brings together chopped tuna, mango, capelin roe, citrus-chile sauce and seaweed wheat crackers; the teriyaki-glazed, Kobe-style meatballs with sweet-hot wasabi aioli; and the straightforward nigirzushi, especially tuna and yellowtail.

Nisen 347, 946 Middle Country Rd. (at Nesconset Highway), St. James; 631-366-3000.

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