Nisen Woodbury: Bolder and better

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Sliders at Nisen in Woodbury. (Aug. 2012)

Sliders at Nisen in Woodbury. (Aug. 2012) Photo Credit: Newsday Peter M. Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Nisen Woodbury opened with great flair in 2009: dramatic dining room, lush textures, lots of color, high-style presentation. The food was very good.

Update: It's better now.

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You'll still enjoy the over-the-top setting and the perpetual-motion sushi chefs. But the reasons to return include everything from the Kobe slider trio and the Kobe meatballs to roast Lola duck in a blood orange-Port wine reduction and lobster tacos.

Traditionalists still will find fine sushi and sashimi, hand rolls and miso soup.

But there's something about that hearts of palm salad with shaved apple, arugula and a jalapeno vinaigrette. And the rack of lamb with horseradish-sour cream, roasted potatoes,, asparagus and "bruleed" figs in a red-wine reduction.

The main course here is surprise.

Nisen Woodbury, 7967 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury; 516-496-7000.

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Slider trio with fries at Nisen Sushi.

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