The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Since it opened in January 2010, Noahs in Greenport has established itself as one of the North Forks most dependable spots for fine dining. This summer, chef-owner Noah Schwartz deputized his brother, Justin, to take the show on the road.
Justin found a 1964 Airstream Land Yacht Safari Edition trailer, outfitted it with a griddle and refrigeration and, in early July, Noahs on the Road took to the streets. The truck serves different menus, depending on the venue. At Lieb Cellars and Castello di Borghese vineyards, for example, the selections are based on the modern, fish-centric menu at Noahs restaurant.
But at Greenport Harbor Brewings new Peconic brewery, where the truck takes up residence most Fridays from 1 p.m. to sunset, tacos are the main event. Other than a blackened swordfish taco ($12), the taco menu looks landward. I went for a taco filled with hoisin-pork belly ($10) garnished with a piquant cucumber kimchee supplied by Justin and Noahs mother, Penny Schwartz. For his vegetarian taco ($8), Justin sprinkles Cajun seasoning on avocado chunks and blackens them on the griddle. These are garnished with fresh corn and cotija cheese. Also on the menu: grilled hanger steak ($12) and barbecue duck ($10) tacos.
The schedule for Noahs food truck is posted on the restaurant's website, chefnoahs.com; click on Noahs on the Road. On Friday, Aug. 8, the truck will be at The Great Food Truck Derby at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. On Aug. 9, it will be at Lieb Cellars in Cutchogue; Aug. 10, Castello di Borghese in Cutchogue; Aug.10, Corey Creek Winery in Southold.