Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

There’s a new barbecue joint in town. North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse has opened in Wading River in the Sound Avenue storefront that used to house The Pizza Pie.

The new business is a collaboration between old friends Patrick Gaeta and Michael Troyan. Gaeta, a regular on the barbecue competition circuit, was also the force behind North Fork Bacon, an artisanal product that, for a few shining months in 2013, was being smoked and sold at My Butcher in Wading River. When Gaeta’s business outgrew the butcher shop, he started looking for a place of his own. He and Troyan spent months transforming the pizza place into a comfortable little spot where customers can either take out or dine at one of 14 seats.

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On the menu: quarter-pound portions of brisket, pulled pork, burnt ends, pulled chicken and chicken wings range between $6 and $8. Ribs are $9 for a quarter rack, $18 for a half rack, $27 for a full rack. Barbecue or jerk chicken is $7 for a quarter bird, $13 for half a bird, $22 for a whole bird. Sandwiches (brisket, chicken or pork) are $10 and come with your choice of pit-baked beans, coleslaw, mac ’n’ cheese, macaroni salad or potato salad. On their own, sides are $3, $5 or $7 depending on size. Fries and pickle chips are both $4.

Gaeta is the pitmaster and Chris Fiorella, formerly of The Fifth Season in Port Jefferson, is the chef in charge of non-smoked items. Look for an expanded menu in the coming weeks, plus the reappearance of Gaeta’s excellent bacon.  

For now North Fork Bacon & Smokehouse is open from noon to 8 p.m. Friday to Sunday. It’s at 1 Sound Rd., Wading River, 631-886-2220, northforkbacon.com.