Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

As North Fork Table & Inn sails into its 10th summer, the Southold restaurant (which earned four stars from Peter M. Gianotti in 2009) is far from resting on its laurels.

Since chef-partner Gerry Hayden was diagnosed with ALS in 2011, he's gradually ceded the physical kitchen work to other chefs. But he's also become more interested in the traditional arts of curing and preserving. The kitchen is now curing its own salmon, pancetta and coppa -- all of which have found their way onto the summer menu. (These items -- plus pastry by chef-owner Claudia Fleming -- are also for sale at the restaurant's Friday farmers market, from 9 a.m. to noon in the parking lot.)

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Hayden still composes the menus, but chefs Julien Shapiro and Scott Ryan have come on board this summer as "culinary collaborators." Shapiro, who grew up in Wading River with a French mother, trained and cooked in France before coming back to the U.S., where he cooked under Hayden at Aureole in Manhattan, then in Washington D.C. at Palena, Range and Eat the Rich. Ryan, Shapiro's sous chef at Eat the Rich, grew up in Boston and worked at The Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro, Harvest and Sofra, also in Boston.

The North Fork Table's summer menu includes house-smoked salmon with corn blini and local radishes; pressed Berkshire ham with pickled rhubarb, house-cured coppa and radishes; pan-seared striped bass with clams, shrimp sausage and spring-onion puree; loin of Berkshire pork with a ragout of fresh chickpeas, smoked pork shank, morels and Frency espelette pepper,

Dinner at North Fork Table is either a three-course prix fixe ($75) or a five-course tasting menu ($150). You can also sit at the bar and order anything from the menu a la carte. And, on Friday evenings from 5 to 7 p.m., you can just stop by and have a glass of Champagne ($10 to $15) and complimentary hors d'oeuvres in the restaurant's garden.

Lunchtime, the restaurant's North Fork Food Truck is parked at the restaurant and serves sandwiches and pastries from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., seven days a week. 

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North Fork Table & Inn is at 57225 Main Rd., Southold, 631-765-0177, nofoti.com