Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Finding good German cooking on Long Island requires persistence and discipline. There are fewer and fewer restaurants that either offer or specialize in the cuisine.

One of the veterans is Pumpernickels, which has been sending out wursts and sauerbraten since 1973. It's worth a visit, especially during the Oktoberfest season.

advertisement | advertise on newsday

Hacker-Pschorr's excellent Oktoberfest brew is available on tap and you can order savory bratwurst and sauerkraut as an appetizer, too. The competion comes from tasty herring with onions in cream sauce, headcheese and ochsenmaul salad. The sauerbraten is tender, paired with dumplngs and red cabbage. And the house's smoked pork loin with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes stands out.

The Bavarian platter includes a chop and a brat. The sauteed steak with fried onions and potatoes has elemental appeal, too. You'll find Wiener schnitzel, pigs' knuckle, and beef rouladen, too. Pumpernickels does prepare continental dishes. But stick with the specialties.

By dessert time, it's unlikely you'll have much room. But, just in case, the choices include apple strudel, linzertorte and Black Forest cake.

Pumpernickels, 640 Main St., Northport; 631-757-7959.