Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Tate’s in Nesconset is the kind of restaurant I live to find – small, unassuming, moderately priced and serious about food.

Chef co-owner Jack Mutell (who named the place for his daughter, Tatum) used to own the former Bistro 99 in Atlantic Beach. Here in Nesconset, he makes virtually everything on the New American/Italian menu, including bread and pasta.

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A $22 three-course prix-fixe runs every night until 7 p.m. On a recent evening, the meal began with a basket of house-baked bread. As much as I appreciated the warm, crusty slices, I would have preferred butter to the olive oil and whole roasted garlic that  was served with them.

A first course of porchetta (slow roasted pork) was topped with an apple-cranberry mustard both fruity and pungent. House made crab-stuffed ravioli were drizzled with a lemon garlic sauce bright enough to startle — in a really good way.  Dessert was a dark, moist chocolate layer cake.

Two important things to keep in mind about Tate’s: It’s cash only and, for now, BYOB.

Tate's is at 292 Smithtown Blvd., Nesconset, (631) 676-3283