Opa Grille, Williston Park: First bites

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A trio of dips -- taramasalata, hummus and

A trio of dips -- taramasalata, hummus and spicy feta -- pairs well with triangles of warm pita at Opa Grille in Williston Park. Photo Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

On a crazy cold night not too long ago, the new Opa Grille in Williston Park was a warm haven. To find a restaurant that's evenly heated isn't as easy as you might imagine.

Dinner began with a basket of warm pita triangles — whole wheat and regular — accompanying an appetizer of three dips: briny taramasalata (roe), spicy feta with roasted peppers, and a properly garlicky hummus ($9.95). While grilled octopus ($15.95) had lots of smoky depth, the scant amount of tentacles had been cut up and plated with way too much red onion.

A hit was an entree of grilled shrimp with a garlicky “scampi” sauce ($18.95). Better yet was a duo of smoky, succulent, well-seasoned grilled pork chops ($17.95), served with bright sauteed spinach and rice. Fine spinach pie, too.

Opa Grille is at 432 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, 516-307-9966.

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