Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The Victorian manse in Greenport whose last identity was the Shady Lady Inn has been reborn as The Portly Grape, a hotel with a restaurant and grill room.

After a makeover — everything is softer and more muted, owner Denise Burke said — the place reopened earlier this month. Executive chef John Norden, who cooked at the River Café in Brooklyn and the Hotel Goldener Hirsch in Salzburg, Austria, offers a New American repertoire with such dishes as Crescent Farm duck breast with herbed risotto and cherry gastrique and a Greenport Ale-braised short rib with celery-root puree and skordalia sauce.

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Good news for guys: You can ditch the ties and jackets once required in the Shady Lady's dining room; there’s no longer a dress code.

The Portly Grape is at 305 North Rd., Greenport, 631- 477-4500.