Oyster Bay: Fiddleheads @ Fiddleheads

(Credit: Feed Me)

Fiddleheads, the first-class seafood restaurant in Oyster Bay, reopened in April with new ownership after a three-month hiatus. And it's an ideal eatery to welcome spring and summer. A seasonal treat on a recent evening: soft-shell crabs in brown-butter sauce, paired with, of course, fiddlehead ferns. It's a delightful dish -- an ideal match in tastes and textures -- from chef David Glatzerman.

Glatzerman also has fun with a holdover: everything-bagel-crusted yellowfin tuna, finished with a sweet-soy reduction and bacon-roasted Brussels sprouts. Excellent tuna, lively preparation. And Fiddleheads has kept the tall, terrific coconut cake among the sweets. Fiddleheads American Fish House and Grill is at 62 South St., Oyster Bay; 516-922-2999.

— Peter M. Gianotti

Photo by Bob Fila

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