Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Pizzetteria Brunetti in Westhampton Beach didn't set out to become Long Island's shellfish pizza specialist, but that's the way it's turning out. Since Sonny (Jason) and Pop (Michael) Brunetti opened their artisanal pizzeria in 2010, their cheese-free vongole bianca (white clam, $19) pie -- topped with nothing more than fresh-shucked local clams, garlic butter and herbs -- has become a cult favorite.

Now they've upped the ante with another seafood specialty: lobster pizza. Still adhering to the Italian tradition that discourages cheese with fish, the pie features big hunks of fresh lobster meat on a crust strewn with cherry tomatoes, fresh corn, scallions and micro basil. It's listed on the specials board (for $19) but Brunetti plans to serve the pizza all summer long.

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Besides being one of Long Island's best pizzerias, Brunetti may well be the smallest, consisting of two counters, 12 stools, and a domed, wood-burning brick oven imported from Naples. The pizza, too, is in the Neapolitan style: thin in the center, puffy around the edges and not overly crisp. This is a crust to savor, not a mere vehicle for toppings.

Pizzetteria Brunetti is at 103 Main St., Westhampton Beach, 631-288-3003, pizzetteriabrunetti.com