Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

You could feed the lions with the epic Sicilian pizza of Colosseo.

The spare, straightforward Port Jefferson Station landmark also is good enough to steel you for the pleasures of visiting the nearby Department of Motor Vehicles.

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Colosseo sticks to the basics, in an often-crowded entry area, where slices reign, to the more leisurely booths-and-tables room at the back. Sit there, and you'll have appropriately kitschy images of ancient Rome for company.

In either space, the Sicilian pie is Colosseo's tribute to emperors and gods. The rectangular, eight-slice pizza has the right texture, tasty sauce, and sufficient cheese to fulfill your required dairy intake. It's $2.55 per slice, a patriotic $17.76 for the whole thing. Add onions, anchovies, the works.

If the husky Sicilian seems too much, try the house's spin on focaccia, cheese-free, modestly acquainted with tomatoes, and completed with some oregano. That's $1.47 per slice; $11.95 for the full pie.

And Colosseo sends out tasty garlic knots and calzones, plus a salad to keep any malcontents in line.

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They take cash only.

Colosseo, 1049 Rte. 112, Port Jefferson Station; 631-928-4972.