Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

It's Pizza of the Week day here at Feed Me.

The pizzeria of King Umberto restaurant in Elmont is known for its Grandma pie. The King blares: "Named and perfected here!"

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But in the repertoire of pizzas turned out in the casual spot next door to the formal restaurant are a couple that spark some competition.

First is the pizza arrabbiata. The Italian word for angry is arrabbiato. And this disc definitely expresses itself. Hot cherry peppers are what turn it a bit irate. Broccoli rabe makes the light, very-thin-crust disc a meal even better. It's finished with mozzarella, garlic and olive oil. The cost is $3.85 per slice; or $14.85 for a 10-inch pizza and $24.95 for a 16-incher.

The boscoreale pizza is a more mellow affair, but just as good. The square affair sports a thin crust with spinach in it, plus Gaeta olives, artichokes and fresh mozzarella. The price is $12.25 for a 10-inch; $19.75, for a 16-inch.

Before you dive into King Umberto's pizzas, try an appetizer from the daily specials or the regulars The stuffed artichoke is generous; eggplant rollatine, tasty; escarole and beans, tops.

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King Umberto, 1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont; 516-352-8391.