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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

It's Wednesday, and it's time for our Pizza of the Week.

The original Umberto's of New Hyde Park is one of Long Island's best-known traditional pizzerias. But there are some new pies in Margheritaville.

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First: the vodka pie. The crust is thin; the mozzarella generous; the herbs fine. And the sauce is exactly what you'd expect with that order of penne alla vodka, creamy and pink. It's surprisingly good and a real alternative for the curious. The price: $26.95. They must be using Elit by Stoli.

When this pizzeria advertises a "deep dish" pan pie, you might think someone has gone crazy over Chicago-style pizza. But don't worry. Even if it's called a "pazzo," this isn't a true deep-dish epic a la Lou Malnati's, Burt's Place or even Pizzeria Uno. It's a thick-crust pie topped with marinara, mozzarella, sausage, olives and roasted peppers. Heavy-duty for sure. It weighs in at $28.95.

This Umberto's, of course, prepares fine Margherita and Grandma pizzas.

The Original Umberto's of New Hyde Park,  633 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-437-7698.