Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Pure North Fork Craft Bar & Bistro replaces Blackwells at the Great Rock Golf Club in Wading River — and shatters the stereotype for golf club restaurants. The hip and casual gastropub  opened to the public on Monday.

“The menu is well-rounded and the focus is on craft — not only in the tap list but in the food and spirits,” said restaurant and golf course manager Brian Curtin, who added that out of 22 beers on tap, 12 are Long Island brews. North Fork wineries are also well-represented on the wine list.

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In charge of the kitchen is Michael Mandleur, whose resume includes such dining spots as the Jamesport Inn in Jamesport, as well as Nick & Toni’s and The Maidstone Arms in East Hampton.

Sous chef/tapas chef Vincent Purcell, who owned a tapas restaurant in Spain, offers small plates from an open kitchen overlooking a designated tapas area, equipped with a large communal table as well as three high-tops.  Here, selections run $5 to $9 and include wild mushroom toast, Scotch egg, braised pork belly, 2-hour braised baby back ribs and bang bang shrimp.

While those eating in the tapas room don't have access to the regular dinner menu, diners in the main area can order anything. On Mandleur’s dinner menu are such dishes as Swiss chard-shiitake risotto, Maryland crabcake, mac and cheese, a Margherita pizza, marinated flank steak, artichoke ravioli and wild boar Bolognese. Entrees run from $12 for a burger to $36 for a grilled 8-ounce filet mignon. A lunch menu ($8 to $12) features a lobster BLT and a Reuben and a Cobb salad, along with pizzas and salads.

Pure North Fork Craft Bar & Bistro is at 141 Fairway Dr., Wading River, 631-886-2777