REGIONAL CHINESE COOKING

China covers a vast territory. Accordingly, rather than having a single culinary tradition, the sprawling nation has many regional cuisines.

While many Long Island Chinese restaurants offer overview-style menus, a growing number are focusing on the food of particular areas. Here are three such places.

CHEF WANG

Sichuan-born chef Ding Gen Wang serves the food of his native region. Standouts include smoked tofu with Chinese celery, shredded duck with string beans and spicy cumin fried lamb. You can also get interactive with hot-pot cooking. $$

1902 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park, 516-354-2858, chefwangnewhydeparkny.com

RED TIGER DUMPLING HOUSE

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1320 Stony Brook Rd., Stony Brook, 631-675-6899,

redtigerdumplinghouse.net

Soup dumplings, a Shanghai specialty, are a top pick at this restaurant specializing in the fare of Shanghai, Beijing and northern China. Try the cumin beef, beef stew noodle soup and “big meatball with brown sauce,” more commonly called lion’s head. $$

YAO’S DINER

2503 Middle Country Rd.

Centereach, 631-588-2218

The fiery cuisine of northern China is a big draw at this casual, focused eatery. Dishes that stand out are West Lake beef soup, cumin lamb, blisteringly hot kung pao chicken and sauteed sliced chicken with chili pepper. $$

— JOAN REMINICK