The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Changing the style of a major restaurant is an operation both big and delicate. Risks abound. Here are two establishments that remade themselves and became more exciting in the process:
The original Mirabelle in St. James was classic French. After moving to Stony Brook's Three Village Inn, it also opened a more casual tavern. Now, the two basically are one outstanding farm-to-table experience, from sliders to grass-fed beef.
150 Main St., Stony Brook; 631-751-0555
THE PLAZA CAFE
One of Long Island's best seafood restaurants recharged, redirected and relaxed its cuisine in 2012. The flavors became bolder and more refined, too. The result: richer and lighter. And you can still order the exceptional lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie, plus local fluke sashimi.
61 Hill St., Southampton; 631-283-9323