The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
Searching for a good restaurant that's either waterside or sports a water view could be a pastime on Long Island. Here are three spots worth the quest, for the site and for the food.
This local landmark has a perch on Manhasset Bay. In its current life, look for the East and West coast oysters, shrimp cocktail, steamed lobster, oven-roasted cod, hoisin-glazed tuna, tuna tartare tacos, calamari with garlic and hot pepper, dry-aged Meyer Ranch strip steak. $$$
395 Main St., Port Washington; 516-883-4242.
You can eat directly on the beach here. It's casual, consistent, very summery dining. After one of the excellent cocktails, consider clam-and-corn chowder; ceviche of shrimp, scallop and fluke; soy-glazed goldeneye tilefish; buttermilk fried chicken; the house burger; Mexican corn. $$-$$$
16 Navy Beach, Montauk; 631-668-6868.
Portuguese cuisine and seafood in general highlight Pier 95, which is near the Nautical Mile but free of the crowds and noise. Recommended: cod cakes with herbaceous tomato sauce; bacalhau with roasted peppers; grilled swordfish; steamed lobster; saute of pork and litttleneck clams. $$-$$$
95 Hudson Ave., Freeport; 516-867-9632.