Ristegio's in North Patchogue: First bites

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Cheesecake is artfully presented at Ristegio's in North

Cheesecake is artfully presented at Ristegio's in North Patchogue. Photo Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

You can eat very well by following the career of Richard Lanza.

The route from the now-shuttered North Fork Oyster Company in Greenport and the fine Blackstone Steakhouse now reaches the North Patchogue-Medford area.

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Lanza and co-owners Steven and Joseph Lanza contribute letters — Ri-Ste-Gio (Joe) — to the amalgamated name of the New American and sushi restaurant, which rises like an angular, stone monument on Route 112.

Here, chef Lanza prepares tender, bacon-wrapped pork medallions with tomato-cilantro relish, black beans and avocado aioli. For a true pig-out, try that after an opener of smoky, Nueske's bacon with a brown-sugar-cured stew of white beans, tomato and pomegranate molasses.

The house's namesake sushi roll, with tuna, yellowtail, salmon, avocado, spicy mayo and tobiko wrapped in a teardrop shape with soy paper, shows another tasty side of the kitchen. So does the artfully constructed cheesecake,

It's a big, noisy affair, deftly managed, with standout service. And the four-screen TV construct above the centrally located bar ensures you won't miss the sports of the moment.

But there's more than enough action on the plate.

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Ristegio's, 641 Rte. 112, North Patchogue; 631-731-3663.

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