The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.
You can eat very well by following the career of Richard Lanza.
The route from the now-shuttered North Fork Oyster Company in Greenport and the fine Blackstone Steakhouse now reaches the North Patchogue-Medford area.
Lanza and co-owners Steven and Joseph Lanza contribute letters Ri-Ste-Gio (Joe) to the amalgamated name of the New American and sushi restaurant, which rises like an angular, stone monument on Route 112.
Here, chef Lanza prepares tender, bacon-wrapped pork medallions with tomato-cilantro relish, black beans and avocado aioli. For a true pig-out, try that after an opener of smoky, Nueske's bacon with a brown-sugar-cured stew of white beans, tomato and pomegranate molasses.
The house's namesake sushi roll, with tuna, yellowtail, salmon, avocado, spicy mayo and tobiko wrapped in a teardrop shape with soy paper, shows another tasty side of the kitchen. So does the artfully constructed cheesecake,
It's a big, noisy affair, deftly managed, with standout service. And the four-screen TV construct above the centrally located bar ensures you won't miss the sports of the moment.
But there's more than enough action on the plate.
Ristegio's, 641 Rte. 112, North Patchogue; 631-731-3663.