Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Roslyn is back up to its full complement of three ambitious Greek restaurants; Kyma joins MP Taverna and Limani in Long Island’s epicenter of Greek gastronomy.

Kyma takes over the freestanding building that housed Trata Estiatorio. (Trata’s seasonal Hampton’s location will be opening soon in Water Mill.) The new restaurant’s owners are John Chatiris, who owns Ethos Gallery restaurant in Manhattan, Mike Angeliadis and Reno Christou. Christou, the managing partner, was part of the original team that opened Limani on Northern Boulevard.

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Christou said that Kyma (“waves” in Greek) was inspired not just by the Greek islands, but by “good times on vacation at a little tavern at any seaside resort.”

With its whitewashed walls, white upholstery and bleached-wood accents, the spacious dining room certainly feels beachy — in an elegant, Roslyn sort of way. The menu also references the sea, with four whole fish priced around $25 (per fish, not per pound) and plenty of other seafood selections, among them the starters grilled octopus ($19), skewered scallops with Vidalia onions ($12) and grilled sardines ($13); mains grilled giant tiger shrimp ($29), marinated swordfish ($29) and seafood linguine ("the entire sea on your plate," $25).

Landlubbers have plenty of options too (from moussaka, $23, to veal chops and lamb chops, $32). And vegetarians could make a fine meal from the appetizers and salads — braised gigantes beans ($9), roasted beets with skordalia ($10), spinach-feta pie ($11) or an excellent, traditional (i.e. no lettuce) Greek salad ($14).

The restaurant is open for dinner 7 days a week; lunch service will start soon.

Kyma is at 1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-3700, kyma-roslyn.com.