Sacramone's, East Meadow: First bites

Mama's old fashioned pie at Sacramone's Mama's old fashioned pie at Sacramone's Photo Credit: Newsday Photo/Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

The namesake coal-fired oven at the new Sacramones Coal Oven Pizza warmed up a recent night. I ordered a 10-inch Mamas old fashioned pie ($9.50), which was topped with a melty confluence of fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, olive oil and basil. Its crust was light and puffy, a nice char speckling it.

The restaurant had other attractions, like a vibrant pasta dish featuring small shells with broccoli rabe and sausage ($15.95). House-made spinach ravioli with cheese, while cooked to an ideal al dente state, was served lukewarm in a spinach tomato sauce ($8.95 appetizer; $15.95 entree). I can only imagine how good the dish might have tasted piping hot. A side of Mama's meatballs" ($1.95 each) had been made from the recipe of family matriarch Maddalena Sacramone, 87, who sometimes cooks at the restaurant. My meatball, although well seasoned, was a bit dense, usually the result of too much ground meat, not enough bread.

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Sacramone's Coal Oven Pizza is at 2366 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow, 516-513-1919

Above: Mama's old fashioned pie at Sacramone's

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