Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

It was a dish just waiting to happen: the breakfast salad. I encountered it not on Long Island but at a Chicago gastropub called Bangers & Lace.

What it turned out to be was a take on the French salade frisee aux lardons, curly endive that's topped with a poached egg and batons of slab bacon. Here, in addition to an egg, the salad featured bresaola (chewy jerky-like chunks of air-dried beef), bacon-infused croutons, fennel, onion, fresh herbs and dollops of house-made ricotta, plus a truffle vinaigrette.

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The verdict: Here's one concept Long Island can do without. There were just too many scratchy greens and not enough of the other ingredients to give it  the comfort quotient one craves in a breakfast dish.

Instead of finishing, I found myself sampling my table mate’s choice, which was far more ingenious and breakfast-appropriate: the build-a-biscuit. It begins with a house-made biscuit, to be ordered with as many or few add-ons as desired: egg, bacon, cheese, vegetables, sausage and/or gravy.

Now there's a concept Long Island breakfast houses could run with. To see where some of the best local breakfasts are being served, click here.