Salumi, Massapequa: Lunch triumph

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Empanada with pork and ginger at Salumi in

Empanada with pork and ginger at Salumi in Massapequa. (February 2013) Photo Credit: Newsday Joan Reminick

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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A recent lunch at Salumi Tapas & Wine Bar uplifted an afternoon. These days, co-owner Lilly Karanova is also executive chef, and she’s clearly doing something right.

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From the roster of small plates, a friend and I shared roasted Brussels sprouts, which were deeply flavorful rather than harshly cabbage-y, plated, in harmonious contrast, with chestnut cream lightly sweetened with pepper honey ($7). And, oh, what an empanada ($7). The house-made pastry — flaky, beautifully burnished — was wrapped around a filling of ginger-lime pork. The filling changes daily; guess I came on an excellent day. Another winner: tender pieces of octopus plated with a Mayan style tomatillo salsa ($12).

Salumi Tapas & Wine Bar is at 5600 Merrick Rd., Massapequa, 516-620-0057

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